Is there any truth behind the protein craze?

Protein has become the Beyoncé of the nutrition world. It is everywhere, it gets all the attention, and somehow it has convinced everyone it can do no wrong. Supermarket shelves are packed with high protein breads, yoghurts, cereals, crisps, cakes and even beer. The Times UK reports that the sports nutrition market has grown to an estimated £1.1 billion. Yet a growing number of nutrition experts are warning that many of these products are examples of what has become known as “protein washing”, a marketing tactic where foods are promoted as high protein despite offering little nutritional advantage over standard versions. In some cases, you are paying significantly more money for little more than an extra gram or two of protein and a stronger sense of virtue. 

The issue is not protein itself. Protein is essential for muscle maintenance, immune function, hormone production, and tissue repair. Dr Jack Mosley, GP registrar, and consultant on the Channel 4 documentary Protein: Everything You Need to Know, explains that protein is present in every cell of your body and plays multiple vital roles. The problem arises when clever marketing persuades you that every snack needs a protein halo. Presenter and fitness influencer Gemma Atkinson admitted she often chose protein bars over treats such as dark chocolate because she assumed the word “protein” automatically meant healthy. After investigating the industry, she discovered that some products carrying high protein claims were also packed with sugar, additives, and highly processed ingredients. It turns out that adding the word protein to a packet does not magically transform it into a nutritional saint. 

One of the most eye-opening findings came from Dr Yanaina Chavez Ugalde, food engineer, and public health specialist. Examining supermarket products with Atkinson, she found examples where high protein versions cost substantially more while providing almost no meaningful increase in protein content. One loaf of high protein bread cost 37.5 per cent more than a standard loaf but contained only one extra gram of protein per 100 grams. A supposedly high protein yoghurt contained less protein than another yoghurt that made no such claim at all. Meanwhile, one protein flapjack contained as much sugar as a glazed doughnut, and a packet of protein chips contained no potato whatsoever. If your crisps have forgotten they are supposed to be made from potatoes, it may be time to ask a few questions. 

The good news is that most people do not need expensive protein products. According to NHS guidance and the British Nutrition Foundation, most adults already consume enough protein through ordinary foods. Dr Mosley says that while older adults and people engaged in regular strength training may benefit from higher protein intake, simply piling more protein into your diet offers little advantage and can crowd out other important nutrients. Experts have repeatedly highlighted that many people obsess over protein while neglecting fibre, despite around 90 per cent of the UK population failing to reach recommended fibre targets.

In practical terms, your body is probably less interested in another protein cookie and more interested in a plate containing beans, vegetables, whole grains, fish, eggs, or dairy. Not quite as glamorous as a chocolate flavoured protein puff, or as savoury as protein crisps (I’m guilty of this one!), but your wallet and your digestive system are likely to be far more impressed.